It’s been a year and a half since the Helmut Lang brand staged a runway show. Back then, it was Hood By Air’s Shayne Oliver at the controls, and the one-off collection was more HBA than HL. there were two unknowns: Mark Thomas and Thomas Cawson. Thomas, the creative director of men’s and women’s-wear at Helmut Lang, did stints at Joseph, Givenchy, and Neil Barrett; Cawson, the denim expert, headed up the global creative direction of Calvin Klein Jeans under the famous Lang fan Raf Simons.
There were looks on the runway that seemed plucked from Helmut collections: the sleek double-layer tank with the tuxedo pants; the white parka on white shirt on white pants; the Crombie coats. More so than Thomas and Cawson’s ability to reproduce them so definitively, the real marvel is how clothes from collections that are now two decades old look so modern. Could it be that minimalism ages better than other aesthetics?
By Melonie Wang